A good can opener must be easy to use, cut cleanly and effortlessly, and stay that way for years to come. When we first tested Nogent’s Super-Kim, we were skeptical. Aside from two big red wings, there was hardly anything to it. But many cans later, it’s one of the best openers we’ve deployed. It’s three inches long and weighs less than a deck of cards. The wings do the work. They’re oversized and coated in polypropylene, which gives cold, wet, or clumsy fingers something to grip. And their big wingspan adds a satisfying leverage. In our testing, the butterfly action dispatched the thickest cans with little effort. It’s a small, cheerful tool that has long been a fixture in French kitchens, and it’s compact enough to live in a glove compartment, a go-bag, or a picnic basket. It will outlast any number of bulkier gadgets.