A nep is a failure, technically. Short cotton fibers tangle into a small knot during processing, and nearly every mill in the world combs them out before the yarn ever reaches a loom, because a clean yarn makes a clean fabric. Pure Blue Japan built a reputation on doing the opposite. For this denim, the brand goes further than usual, spinning nep yarn for the weft and the warp rather than just one of them, so the knots surface on both axes of the weave. The result is a 16oz selvedge that feels dry and coarse under the hand, with pale flecks and small raised bumps scattered everywhere, much closer to cloth spun at home a century ago than to the smooth face of a modern denim. The second decision is about color. Indigo rope dye handles the warp, and the weft is dyed in sumi, the soot-based ink used for Japanese calligraphy, bound with glue and ground with water before it meets the yarn. Most denim sets indigo against a white weft, which bounces light back through the weave and makes the blue look bright. Sumi absorbs it instead, and the whole fabric drops into a smoky blue-black with no shine anywhere in it. Pure Blue Japan carries that restraint through every component, matching the deerskin patch, the embroidered leaf on the back pocket, and the sewing thread to the fabric so nothing breaks the surface. That decision pays off as the jeans age. The indigo pulls back at the knees, the seat, and the seams the way it always does, but the sumi underneath means the high points never reach white, holding onto the smoke instead, while the neps abrade first and raise the texture even further. At 16oz the denim fights you early and gives ground slowly. The 003 cut keeps a high rise and runs straight from the knee down, a plain five-pocket frame that leaves the fabric to do the talking. Woven in Okayama on shuttle looms, with a button fly and iron buttons, hidden rivets at the back pockets, herringbone twill pocket bags, and chain stitching at the hem and waistband. 16oz Japanese selvedge denim Nep yarn in both warp and weft Rope-dyed indigo warp Sumi ink-dyed weft Woven in Okayama on shuttle looms Deerskin leather patch Embroidered leaf emblem on back pocket Tone-matched sewing thread Button fly with iron buttons Hidden rivets on back pockets Herringbone twill pocket lining Chain-stitched hem and waistband Unsanforized and one washed Made in Japan Size Waist Hips Front Rise Back Rise Thigh Knee Leg Opening Inseam 30 28.3" 20.5 10.8 15 11.6 8.7 7.5 33.1 31 29.1 20.9 10.8 15 11.8 8.9 7.9 32.7 32 30.7 21.7 11 15 12 9.1 7.9 33.5 33 31.1 22.4 11 15.4 12.6 9.4 8.3 33.3 34 33.1 22.8 11 15.4 12.6 9.6 8.3 33.1 35 33.5 23.2 11.6 15.7 13 9.8 8.7 32.9 36 34.6 24 11.6 15.7 13.2 9.8 8.9 32.7 38 36.6 24.4 12.2 15.7 13.6 10 9.1 32.9 40 38.6 26 12.2 16.1 14.2 10.2 9.1 32.7 42 40.9 27.2 12.6 16.7 14.6 10.4 9.4 33.1 A variance of +/-.5 is within tolerance.  Fit Notes: Shop owner Tommy is wearing a 34 in these. He snagged his normal size, forgetting that the 003 runs a little tight on him in that size. He would likely buy the size 35. We recommend sizing up once in these by nature, and going up once more if you're looking for a roomy leg fit. If you like the true straight leg fit, once should be enough. Tommy is 5'9,' 160lbs with a 33-34" waist.  *The regular straight from Pure Blue Japan sits at a medium-high rise with generous room through the top block and thigh and falls straight from knee to hem for a classic yet modern straight silhouette.* table { width: 100%; border-collapse: collapse; } th, td { border: 1px solid black; padding: 8px; text-align: center; } th { background-color: #f2f2f2; }