Pure Blue Japan's Tea-Core Denim series is one of the most genuinely original ideas in denim we've encountered, and this brown weft version is the evolution of a concept that was already extraordinary. The inspiration comes directly from tea-core leather, the technique used on premium leather jackets where a natural or brown base is painted or overdyed black, revealing the lighter core as the surface wears through over time. PBJ has translated that aging philosophy into selvedge denim by dyeing the warp yarns brown first, then rope-dyeing them black to create a yarn with a brown core sitting beneath a black surface. This version takes it further by pairing those tea-core warp yarns with a brown weft, giving the fabric a warmer, softer appearance from the start and deepening the color dimension considerably compared to the original black weft release. As the denim wears in and friction exposes the brown core of the warp, the fabric develops earthy, muted tobacco tones in a fading process that is entirely unlike anything standard denim produces. The 14oz slubby selvedge is woven on vintage shuttle looms in Okayama using proprietary slub yarns of differing thicknesses, producing a hairy, textured surface that will only grow in character as the dye and denim go their separate ways. One washed in-house, cotton-soft from the jump, and built to develop into something truly singular. 14oz 100% cotton PBJ original slubby selvedge denim Tea-core black warp, brown weft Warp yarns brown-dyed then rope-dyed black, brown core revealed with wear Woven on vintage shuttle looms in Okayama Regular straight fit, roomy top block with slight taper Button fly with iron buttons Hidden copper rivets Chainstitched hem and waistband Herringbone twill pocket lining Embroidered Shoai leaf emblem on back pocket Lambskin leather patch 100% cotton thread construction One wash Made in Japan Size Waist Hips Front Rise Back Rise Upper Thigh Knee Leg Opening Inseam 29 29" 19 10.75 14.5 11.5 8.5 7.5 33.5 30 30 20 11 14.75 11.75 8.75 7.5 33.5 31 31 21 11 15 12 9 7.75 33.5 32 32 21.5 11.25 15.25 12.5 9.25 7.75 33.5 33 33 22.25 11.5 15.5 12.5 9.5 8.25 33.5 34 34 23 11.75 15.75 13 9.5 8.5 33.5 35 35 23.5 12 15.75 13.25 9.75 8.75 33.5 36 36 23.75 12 16 13.25 10 9 33.5 38 38 25 12.25 16.25 14 10 9.25 33.5 A variance of +/-.5 is within tolerance. Fit Notes: Shop owner Tommy popped up to a 35 in these. That is one above his standard starting point from PBJ. These have a little more room than the 019, so he could likely wear a 34, but liked the fit of the 35 better. We would still recommend sizing up twice in these. Tommy is 5'9,' 165lbs with a 33-34" waist. *The regular straight from Pure Blue Japan sits at a medium-high rise with generous room through the top block and thigh and falls straight from knee to hem for a classic yet modern straight silhouette.* table { width: 100%; border-collapse: collapse; } th, td { border: 1px solid black; padding: 8px; text-align: center; } th { background-color: #f2f2f2; }